Can you truly separate race and culture from food, especially when it comes to African American soul food? Do stereotypes influence our expectations of a restaurant at first glance? Do some Caucasian individuals genuinely prefer milder flavors? My initial, perhaps biased, answer is yes.
I had trouble finding parking at Alta Adams, which was frustrating. Valet parking was $9, and in retrospect, I should have used it to save myself the walk and stress. When I entered, the dining room was mostly filled with Caucasian patrons, which surprised me. I had been told Alta was a Black-owned soul food restaurant with a twist. My date and I were there to celebrate her friend’s birthday, and we were led outside to join our group. The decor at Alta is very similar to Yardbird in Beverly Hills. It wouldn’t surprise me if they shared owners or business associates. Two “soul food-esque” restaurants in close proximity sounds like someone’s misguided interpretation of soul food. Before anyone criticizes this seemingly biased post, I want to acknowledge that individuals of any background can make excellent soul food. However, none of those individuals I’m thinking of live outside of the South. (Love you, Paula Deen! More butter, please.)
My dislike of Alta isn’t because the food is terrible, it’s because the restaurant seems inauthentic. People accept Eminem in hip-hop because he’s talented and respects the culture. I dislike Alta because it doesn’t seem to respect the culture of soul food. Their food feels like someone’s attempt to reimagine Southern cuisine through a Californian lens. From the moment you walk into Alta, you get the sense that something’s not quite right.
I ordered the pork chop (which comes à la carte, like everything else on the menu), the sweet potato dish, and the mac and cheese. All of it was mediocre. The mac and cheese had some sort of white sauce on top, the pork chop was covered in pico de gallo and was undercooked and tough. The sweet potato dish was just okay.
Needless to say, I won’t be returning to Alta, and I wouldn’t recommend it to others.
P.S. The oxtails and rice dish was actually good. The oxtails, that is, not the rice! The rice was on par with the rest of the disappointing food.
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